Trisha Buller | Let’s get to the root of the problem

Continuing her series, Trisha Buller MIT SRSH senior consultant Trichologist and owner of the award-winning Ciente salon in Berkhamsted, goes back to basics and looks at ways to help your salon win on the high street.

Products and educating your client (never criticise another brand).

Recommending the right product for a client’s scalp type and hair condition and texture is key as it will help your client to maintain their hair condition, style and colour in-between visits to the salon, creating a trust and professional relationship which will ensure they return time and time again.

You can be using the most expensive product but if it is not right for your  client’s scalp condition or hair type, they could be wasting money and this gives the wrong impression on the brand or the professional image you are portraying to your clients .

I have always found by asking certain questions during consultation, you can really help to guide your clients through their hair journey and offer an ongoing hair plan which will help to maintain the condition and give longevity to hair colour too.

As stylists we should avoid criticising what products our clients are currently using as this can be misconstrued and taken personally.

Always start from fresh and be guided by what you can visually see with regards to the scalp, hair condition and texture.  For example: When was the hair last shampooed? This is a key question, and good starting point as it will determine the scalp condition.

• Is it oily from not shampooing for days or naturally producing an excess amount of sebum?
• Are there any scalp excoriations or dead skin cells present?
• Any signs of sensitivity? This would display itself by the scalp looking red and the client expressing their head hurts to touch or the scalp feels sore.

Once the scalp condition has been identified you can then assess the hair condition and hair type or texture.

Shampoo is for the scalp condition, so choosing the correct shampoo for your client’s scalp condition is the first important step to preparing the hair for the following treatments and service.

• Take a few strands of hair in-between your fore finger and thumb and run down and then up the hair shaft to identify the hair porosity and cuticle condition.
• Taking three to four hairs in-between your forefinger and thumb again, gently stretch the hair to see how much stretch and return the hair has, it should stretch and return a third of its length.
• If it stretches and doesn’t return, it needs protein to strengthen the hair structure.
• If it doesn’t stretch at all it needs moisture which gives the hair pliability, bounce and hold.
• If it doesn’t stretch initially then stretches and tears, this could indicate the cuticle is coated with a silicon, thus not allowing the hair to give a true reading of the condition. – this could require a cleansing shampoo to remove any build up from the hair first. You could place a plastic cap over the hair and pop under heat for five minutes – this will help to remove chlorine and other minerals and salts that the hair may have absorbed. Rinse thoroughly then repeat the stretch and return to identify the true condition before carrying on with a treatment plan .

Generally everyone’s hair  needs a treatment, either for the scalp or the hair and more often than not both. Once the clients scalp condition and hair type has been determined and dealt with we can then determine how the client would like to see her finished look. Is it body,volume and bounce or smooth, sleek and shiny? This would reflect the conditioner type you would use, and finally, last but not least styling products.

Hair is hygroscopic so will absorb the slightest moisture into the hair structure. Styling products protect the hair cuticle from the atmosphere, creating shine, body, bounce and hold. Humidity is one the most offending factors of destroying a fabulous hair style ,so by introducing anti-humectant styling products to the client’s hair care regime, this will really assist in locking out the moisture and giving longevity to the style .

Commentary styling is a big success with our clients at Ciente Hair Health Spa – the client needs to be shown every step of the way.

We bullet point every step…

• How much shampoo to use. 
• Emulsify in your hands. 
• Evenly distribute throughout your scalp then hair. 
• If this does not lather add more water NOT shampoo.
• Rinse thoroughly. 
• How much conditioner to use .
• How to apply to the hair.
• Is it their hair only or the scalp too?
• Never brush wet hair.
• Use a wide tooth comb.
• Start from the ends working gently towards the roots.
• When and how do they apply the treatment ?
• How much to use 
• How long do they leave the treatment on for ?
• When should they apply styling products.

Another fabulous opportunity when giving professional advice is to recommend all heated styling tools from hair dryers, (should or shouldn’t they be using a nozzle? A nozzle gives direction of heat and protects the cuticle from being scorched) to straightening irons and curling wands .

Changing brushes regularly to avoid hair breakage for instance is another good tip.

By covering every step of the way with your client on their hair plan journey, you will have created a raving fan and a long standing relationship with your client, who has bought into your brand