“Wearable geometry was my goal with these haircuts.” Akin Konizi, international creative director, HOB Academy
1 Divide the back from the front at the back of the ear, then split the back in half from the top to the nape. Take sections parallel to your baseline. Once you’re happy with the outline shape, begin to work up one side first with even tension and cutting on the skin. Repeat on opposite side.
2 Once both sides are complete, start to create the length on the side area. Taking a horizontal section continue the shape through the sides, allowing for the ear area – and once again using even tension to create a small amount of graduation, enabling the hair to have a bevel. Continue up to the parting and then repeat on the opposite side.
3 The most focal point of this haircut is the fringe. Usually a fringe area would be from the parting and then to either recession area, forming a triangle shaped section. For this particular haircut the fringe area was extended towards the ear area to give a twist on a classic bob shape. Once sectioned off, take sections parallel to the hairline and cut the desired shape. Continue with even tension to complete the shape.
4 Blow-dry with a Denman brush, then a round brush, and finish with styling irons.
1 Section the length from just under the occipital bone in a curved horseshoe-shaped section. It’s best to think of this haircut as a short hair with longer length around the perimeter shape.
2 Work with a classic round layer to allow the hair to hug the head shape. I would advise to keep the top slightly square to ensure you do not create a corner which would result in added weight on top. Choose the optimal length carefully to allow for texturizing afterwards. Also, slightly lift towards the bottom of the sides to keep a little more weight at the bottom to later create the stronger outline.
3 Take horizontal sections on the side, and create a geometric outline whilst still keeping an element of softness over the ears.
4 Texturize throughout and cut the fringe to the desired length.
Haircut by Akin Konizi, international creative director, HOB Academy, London
Colour: Warren Boodaghian, head of technical, HOB Academy