Designer: Erdem Moralioglu
Hair: Richard Phillipart using MyOrganics
Stylist: Tabitha Simmons
Makeup: Amy Conway using Bobbi Brown Photography: @stellamorais_
The collection is inspired by British aristocrat Deborah Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. She was one of the fabled Mitford sisters, whose doings fascinated – and often scandalised – society in the 1940s. The Dowager Duchess presided over the transformation of Chatsworth House, one of England’s most palatial stately homes. Her love of art, culture, nature and history, teamed with her unique personality and wonderfully original approach to life, made her one of Britain’s most prominent women of inimitable style and personality throughout her remarkable 94 years.
Taking the Duchess’s passion for art in all its forms – from Rembrandt to Elvis! – as its starting point, the collection focuses on her eclectic and passionate style to mix contrasting aesthetics that inform the runway look. At first glance, the masculine, Elvis-inspired slicked-back quiffs are strong and alluring – featuring side-partings chosen to compliment the models’ faces and slicked edges. As the models stride past however, you will notice the change in textures from oiled, textured and slick to matte, clean and strict at the back. The hair is held in place using a braiding technique specially developed by Richard to hug the head shape, enhancing the silhouette and juxtaposing the exposed textured hair of the ponytail.
To begin with, all models had their hair cleansed and treated with the Supreme shampoo and Miracle mask, this provided intense nourishment without weighing the hair down. The hair was then coated liberally with Thickening Spray and blasted dry without a nozzle to enhance natural texture and swell the cuticles. Strong Hold Mousse was then applied to the dry hair at the front and crown to separate and sculpt the hair into a strong side-parting with a sweeping quiff. Traceless grips were used to hold the hair in place while styling.
The remaining hair was then sprayed with Strong Hold, Hydrating Hairspray to enhance the grip, before being braided down the back of the head and tied tightly with elastic. This was then sprayed with My.Pure Biphasic for its polishing, detangling and anti-frizz action, giving the hair incredible luminosity. Finishing touches included using the Water Moulding Wax on the slick face-framing tendrils. Pumps of the Sublime Oil were also warmed up in the hand and slicked over the front quiff for shine, before finishing with more Strong Hold, Hydrating Hairspray to set the look.
For models with natural, textured hair, products were chosen to enhance the natural beauty of the hair rather than alter it. Products including Curl Revival, Sublime Oil, Angel Potion and Smoothing Lotion featured heavily, ensuring all curls and coils were nourished and refined. Braids were created using Water Moulding Wax, which is great for its strong hold and control of the hair. Strong Hold Mousse was also used to finish the braids – it was applied plentiful all over, before the hair was netted and set using a diffuser to seal down any flyaway hairs.
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