This month, Errol sits down with Charlotte Mensah. As well as winning afro hairdresser of the year three times at the British hairdressing awards, Charlotte is the owner of the Hair Lounge salon and founder of the Charlotte Mensah Manketti hair oil product range. An inspiration to stylists, business owners and women worldwide, Charlotte is recognised as one of the go-to authorities on natural, afro, mixed and curly textures.
HI CHARLOTTE, THANKS FOR BEING HERE TODAY. WHEN IT COMES TO HAIR, WHAT DOES THE TERM INCLUSIVITY MEAN TO YOU?
It’s about being able to ‘see’ everyone: every texture, every hair type, every kind of person. It’s about representing life today.
IS THERE ENOUGH OF A SPOTLIGHT ON THESE CONVERSATIONS IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY?
It’s getting better, but I think we could still be doing more to push these conversations every day – not just, for instance, when it’s Black History Month. We need to be representing everyone at every event within the hair industry; this needs to become the norm. The way we talk about hair plays a big part, so changing the language we use is a good start. Look at it this way, when I buy a product like a body cream or a deodorant, it’s not just because it’s boxed up in a particular way – I choose it because it’s moisturising or I know it will work for my skin. Afro hair is often very marginalised and put in a box, when it’s really just a hair type that needs extra moisture. Let’s not always be using negative words like ‘dry’ and ‘brittle’, but instead challenge perceptions of hair types and try to talk about them in a more positive way.
YOU’VE WRITTEN A BOOK, GOOD HAIR. WHAT WERE YOUR KEY LEARNINGS FROM RESEARCHING IT?
The title Good Hair comes from the fact that all hair is ‘good’ – it celebrates and embraces all kinds of hair, whatever its god-given texture. The book is part memoir, part history, part science, and tips and tricks too. It was a way to tell my story. It took a long time to write, but I feel there’s so much to it, tracing back to my roots and heritage in Ghana and how I got to where I am today. It’s about how I found love and happiness in hair.
HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATION AND TRAINING PLAY IN THE QUEST FOR INCLUSIVITY?
Oh, 100% education is the most important thing. First and foremost, you don’t just learn about hair and then you’re done – there is always something to master, refresh or revitalise. Teaching is not just about new stuff, it’s a renewal process that gives you power to do more and keep your creative energy flowing. Wherever you are in your career, you have to strive for excellence all the time. Teaching and helping people to understand textured hair is just so important.
WHAT DO YOU THINK SALONS CAN DO TO OFFER A TRULY INCLUSIVE SERVICE?
You can’t just harp on about change, you have to be the one setting the example. Salon owners should not only encourage their teams, but they also need to participate. Moving your salon forward and educating your team will only be better for business, and who doesn’t want a busy salon?
WHAT PART DO PRODUCT COMPANIES PLAY IN THE ADVANCEMENT OF INCLUSIVITY?
There’s big money to be made in the textured hair market, but I’m not sure that enough is being put into research. We need people with understanding and experience, and that starts from the top – where are the people from diverse backgrounds at the table in the boardroom? To see a real change, we need to look at the leadership of these big brands.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST TECHNICAL TIP REGARDING TYPE 4 HAIR?
If you’re not familiar with this hair type, get yourself on a course. Start with the education and the science and then practice, practice, practice. Get your friends in, do model nights, experiment with techniques like braiding and blow-dries for textured hair. Really take your time to familiarise yourself with the hair type you have in front of you – brush it, feel it, get to understand it. It can be as simple as that. Confidence comes from knowledge.
WHAT WERE YOUR OBJECTIVES WHEN YOU DEVELOPED YOUR MANKETTI HAIR OIL RANGE?
As well as being about the right results, the range is also all about sustainability. It was a lot of trial and error, and it took six years to develop. Launching a brand and getting people to believe in it is so hard, but it taught me that if you believe in something, it’s a winner. The range really connects with me and my heritage, and it has a lot of symbolism attached to it. It’s formulated with Manketti oil, which is the most amazing moisturising agent. All the packaging is re-useable and the ingredients are ethically sourced in Africa, which puts money back into those local communities, so it has sustainability at its core.
WHAT ARE THE INCLUSIVE PRACTICES YOU EMPLOY AT YOUR SALON?
When you walk through the doors at Hair Lounge, you know there’s a warmth about it. It’s a place where everyone feels seen and safe; you could be a superstar sitting next to someone who works at Tesco, and there’s no distinction. We make it for everyone – all hair types, all backgrounds. Of course, it’s a business and we’re not playing around, but everyone is valued and supported and gets the same special treatment. It’s a place for humankind – simple as that.
WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAIR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT IT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?
It’s definitely outdated and implies that some hair types are ‘abnormal’. What exactly is abnormal in this day and age? I’ve heard this terminology from some big brands I’ve worked with, particulary when casting models. If we want to encourage inclusivity and diversity, we shouldn’t be discriminating against anyone because of the texture of their hair.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING EVERY HAIRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAIR?
I’d say read as many books on Black History as you can. Culture and history are all intertwined, and you’ll learn so much more than just how to delve into this hair type.
For related articles, click here
