This month, Errol sits down with Chris Foster. With over 30 years of experience in the hair world, Chris is an independent men’s grooming specialist whose work has taken him from a small barbershop in Tottenham to global session styling and becoming the creative director at the refinery and gentlemen’s tonic in mayfair and the harrods barbershop in Knightsbridge. Chris has won multiple awards, including a master craftsman award, which he received at the house of commons. These days, he’s a career development coach as ‘the profile guy’, working to help salons and individual stylists with their marketing and communication.
HI CHRIS, THANKS FOR CHATTING TO ME TODAY. WHEN IT COMES TO HAIR, WHAT DOES THE TERM INCLUSIVITY MEAN TO YOU?
Being inclusive is having the skills to do every type of hair, meaning nobody should feel excluded at all. I guess when you work outside of a metropolitan area, you may find that you have just one demographic of hair type, but where I’m located in the West End of London, being inclusive is part and parcel of what I do. In a single word, inclusivity is never ‘no’, it should always be ‘yes’. Whether you’ve got hair that’s ‘too curly’, ‘too straight’ or ‘too green’, it’s my job to create what you’ve asked for. Asking, ‘How can I serve you? How can I solve your problem?’ That’s inclusivity to me.
IS THERE ENOUGH OF A SPOTLIGHT ON THESE CONVERSATIONS IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY?
I think it’s sometimes much easier to push that responsibility onto someone else rather than addressing it ourselves. We all gravitate to staying in our comfort zone, this means we often don’t push ourselves, which unfortunately kills self-development. Personally, I’ve always been on a crusade to put myself in uncomfortable positions where I’m learning and growing. I think a lot of creators stick too much to what they’re used to, but I’ve learnt that unless you personally push yourself to try and change with the times, then unfortunately you get left behind.
WHO WERE YOUR ROLE MODELS WHEN ADVANCING THROUGH THE HAIR INDUSTRY? WHO IS PROJECTING THE RIGHT KIND OF POSITIVE MESSAGE ABOUT INCLUSIVITY?
It’s 100% you Errol! When I was in college in the 90s, I was always watching videos of you cutting hair. Being a black guy myself, looking at you made me think ‘okay, it is possible to do all types of hair’. At the time, I was in an area where I was doing predominately black, textured, Afro hair, but if I’d stayed in that comfort zone I’d still be there today – and I certainly wouldn’t have had the self-belief to end up in Mayfair. That inspiration motivated me to put my career on ice, go to college and retrain for three years. In some ways, this definitely made me feel like a fish out of water; I remember walking into Selfridges thinking, ‘I don’t even know how I should be talking!’ The whole process was uncomfortable, but that’s the thing that drives me. These days, I’ve evolved into more of an all-round problem-solver within the industry; I don’t just do hair, I solve marketing problems and career issues. If people want to earn more or achieve more within their career, being totally inclusive is going to get you there, because it’s solving more problems.
HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATION PLAY IN THE QUEST FOR INCLUSIVITY?
Education is so important. If a student wants to go to college, they should be able to learn about all types of hair as this opens up more job opportunities. I feel fortunate that I can say yes to any job that comes my way because I am able to do all types of hair. Not being limited in that way has been totally rewarding; I’ve been able to do some fantastic jobs without having to say no.
AS A SESSION STYLIST WHO IS PARTICULARLY EXPOSED TO THAT WORLD, ARE THE TOPICS ANY DIFFERENT IN FASHION CIRCLES? DO YOU THINK WE’RE AHEAD OR BEHIND THE CURVE WHEN IT COMES TO SPREADING INCLUSIVE NARRATIVES?
I think fashion goes through waves of what it considers to be inclusive, then the industry changes and switches back; there are always ebbs and flows of what’s ‘in’ and what’s ‘out’. Ultimately, I believe fashion is changing because the conversation is changing. Fashion is waking up and moving forward, but there are still preconceptions of ‘you do this, and they do that’. I don’t want to bash an industry that is so good to me, but even today I’m still seen as the black guy that does black hair. I realise that a lot of the bias is unconscious, but there are all these unconscious things we need to get over on all sides of the spectrum. It’s something that affects all of us, from any background – we all have to work through it.
WHAT DO YOU THINK SALONS CAN DO TO OFFER A TRULY DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE SERVICE? DOES THE RESPONSIBILITY LIE WITH SALON OWNERS?
I actually think the burden rests with the stylist, not with the salon owner. It’s down to the stylist to think, ‘I’m going to push myself into uncomfortable positions and expand my own knowledge’. It’s so much easier to leave it to the salon and say it’s their responsibility, but if the stylist wants to grow and progress, it’s on them. If you want to do something, do it – don’t wait for permission. I’m an independent stylist though, so I always think that way – that’s my bag!
ARE PRODUCT COMPANIES DOING ENOUGH IN THE ADVANCEMENT OF INCLUSIVITY?
I don’t think so, no. There are some companies making leaps and bounds, but the majority of them aren’t doing enough. I get it, it’s down to money, but marketing should always be inclusive. I mean, we are on a planet that has all these different people, and everyone deserves to be equally catered for. Will it change automatically? No, but I hope that product companies will eventually find a way of communicating to everyone.
WHAT’S THE BEST TECHNICAL TIP YOU COULD GIVE ANYONE REGARDING TYPE 4 HAIR?
For me, it’s totally about mastering shrinkage. Never underestimate the shrinkage – it’s a powerful thing! Wet Afro hair will take on a completely different format when it’s dry, understanding that has helped me become a better hairdresser.
WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAIR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT IT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?
Nothing is normal! I believe the term doesn’t even exist anymore, whether that’s hair, personality traits or behaviour – the label is irrelevant.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING EVERY HAIRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAIR?
Embrace it! Take advantage of the fact that there’s education out there and push yourself towards it. Remember, the onus is on you as the stylist to push yourself, not your salon. I’ve had the best opportunities in my work purely because I do every type of hair, and that means never having to say no.
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