Passion4hair | Frequently Asked Colour Questions

Any colour result you undertake will be 50 percent performance of your colour brand, 25 percent formulation (how you decide to get from A – B) and 25 percent technique (how you apply the product and the placement you choose).  

To help strengthen the 50% the hairdresser is responsible for here are the answers to some FAQ’s :-

Can I go from dark to blonde in one day?

This is a question often asked by hairdressers and clients alike. The answer in short is yes, it is possible. Just look at this video of a colour correction, carried out in one sitting by Giorgina Petrarca from Gi Luca Salon (Luton). Perhaps more important considerations are, is a sitting of 10 hours the most practical solution and how much would this plan for the condition of the hair. Begin with a strand test which will help indicate what is possible, a method of work and how much it will cost. In Giorgina’s video she used Malibu C to remove the oxidative colour and bleach to lift the hair to the desired level all the while using products to protect the condition of the hair. Once she had lightened the hair to the desired level she toned to the desired target. A beautiful result and the cost was in excess of £400. Another solution may be two or three sittings –

• For the comfort of the client and hairdresser
• Chance for the hair to recover between sittings
• Spread the cost over more than one appointment

How can I knock out the warmth in my toning?

Controlling the underlying tone can be a challenge, particularly when your target is a cool tonal result. Even at the highest level the underlying tone will still be yellow. If the hair is lightened beyond yellow, it will simply disintegrate. So here are a couple of strategies you can use to get those cool results your clients long for.

• Lift the base one level lighter than your target which will make the underlying tone less warm and therefore allow your cool toner a better chance to ‘control’ and cover the warmth. Example, if your target is a level 9 cool ash, lift the base to 10 allowing your toner to ‘deposit’ the cool tones. This chart shows that the concentration of melanin at level 9 is yellow and at level 10 is light yellow.
• Another way to ‘control’ concentration of melanin (underlying tone) is to tone once to neutralise, and once to achieve target tone. Example, if your target is level 10 cool ash, neutralise the yellow with a violet and then tone with your target cool ash.

How do I get better longevity with my colour services?

Oxidation management during your service can help control fade from the minute your colour process is complete. Malibu C DE-Ox stops oxidation instantly. Without managing the oxidation, it can continue for up to 48 hours after your service. Have you ever had a client complain that her toner literally faded out days after application and she has not even washed it? This happens when the bleach is left oxidising, and it literally oxidises the toner away.

Managing colour fade at home starts with the integrity/fabric of the hair before your service. If the cuticle of the hair is eroded either through chemical services or physical damage, controlling colour fade is going to be a pretty thankless task. It is important to be realistic and honest with your client and give advice and recommendations of how to get better results with their hair at home through use of appropriate products. Chemically treated hair needs regular reconstructing, preferably at least once a week even for the best condition hair. I find that often clients do not appreciate the importance of leaving the mask on for the appropriate amount of time. Our favourite is Malibu C Miracle Repair which immediately repairs damaged hair and rebuilds the inner structure of the hair. This leaves hair feeling softer, shiner and full of body and bounce.

You can shop Malibu C Miracle Repair on Passion4hair here.

You are responsible for 50% of a colour service, which means that the time spent behind the chair is some of the most important minutes you will spend with your client (barring the time spent in consultation obviously)! This means, a hairdresser should constantly be looking for new chances to up skill and keep up to date with the latest trends. Passion4hair offers the P4h Academy to you, where our class schedule is made up of courses tailored to every professional in the industry – from salon owner to apprentice, from business strategy to colour technique and from customer experts to customer novice.

Browse the P4h schedule here.