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EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE | Errol Douglas MBE interviews Jacqui McIntosh

December 27, 2023

Errol Douglas has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing. With equality, diversity and inclusivity high on his agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon. In the second of our new series, Errol continues to interview hair-industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

This month, Errol sits down with European education director for Avlon, Jacqui Mcintosh. A qualified teacher, business coach and mentor with over 30 years’ experience in the hairdressing sector, Jacqui is highly skilled in the science of haircare and possesses unrivalled knowledge of the textured hair market.

HI JACQUI, THANKS FOR CHATTING TO ME TODAY. WHAT DOES THE TERM INCLUSIVITY MEAN TO YOU?

As far as hairdressing is concerned, it’s a tricky one and we have to be careful. Should anyone be able to walk into any salon and expect to be catered for? Yes. But on the other hand, are we putting a lot of pressure on salon owners who – maybe due to financial or geographical reasons –don’t stock specific products or possess the knowledge to deliver certain services correctly? Also yes. It’s not necessarily about people choosing to opt out of the diversity conversation, it can depend on the demographic of their clientele. There is absolutely no excuse for salons in multicultural cities not to be equipped for every hair type. However, if you’re a small salon in, let’s say, a Somerset village, demands for certain treatments or services may be very low and we shouldn’t beholding a gun to their heads. Where I do feel there is no excuse though is in education. Every UK worker pays tax, therefore government funded education should reflect and benefit everyone. Every hair student should be receiving a full and rounded training on EVERY type of hair at college. To me, this is where the responsibility lies.

YOU’RE ONE OF THE COUNTRY’S LEADING TEXTURED HAIR SPECIALISTS AND YOU’RE ALSO A CERTIFIED TRICHOLOGIST – HOW IMPORTANT HAS THAT PART OF YOURT RAINING BEEN IN MAKING YOU SUCH AN EXPERT IN THIS AREA?

Invaluable. Hair is an amazing part of our anatomy that is still baffling scientists today. Every time we think we have it figured out, another breakthrough happens that changes our perspective, which is why staying engaged with new research and product development is key. Clients are exposed to so much information, and it’s our responsibility as stylists to have a good understanding of hair and all its complexities.

HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATION AND TRAINING PLAY IN THE QUEST FOR INCLUSIVITY?

It’s where it all starts. I was one of the lucky ones who was taught across the board, but the education system still has a long way togo. Whilst some training academies are doing an amazing job, there are far too many that do not invest in ensuring their staff are fully vocationally competent. This is where the cracks in education begin to occur. Can you imagine being employed as a trainer and not knowing how to teach colour? It just wouldn’t happen. So why do we turn a blind eye to other areas being disregarded? We have to teach the fundamentals – chemical processes, haircare, new technology – and we need to know how to apply them to every type of hair. Knowledge gaps in college leavers wouldn’t be tolerated in any other industry, so they shouldn’t be tolerated in ours.

WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAIR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT IT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?

To me, that’s just throwaway terminology, there is no such thing as ‘normal hair’. Normal is not a helpful term in any professional environment –what one person may consider normal, another would not. It’s important to do your own analysis and examination on each individual hair type: What are you seeing and feeling? These questions will help you decide the best outcome, whilst also making your product selection more personal for your client.

WHAT IS AVLON DOING TO ENSURE INCLUSION IS ON EVERYONE’S AGENDA?

Avlon Europe has a history of supporting education, with our founder Dr Ali Syed at the helm. His passion is to inspire the professional hairdresser to embrace the science of haircare. With a commitment to product innovation and to uncovering the science behind the most fragile hair types on the planet, his ethos makes working with the brand truly rewarding. Next year, we will be launching two satellite academies and opening our doors to anyone who has an interest in textured hair education. This is going to be an amazing venture.

WHAT DO YOU THINK SALONS CAN DOTO OFFER A TRULY INCLUSIVE SERVICE?

Firstly, it’s important to think about your client base – people won’t come to you if your services don’t reflect them. Evaluate what services you already do well and consider how you can translate these to textured hair clients, whilst still sitting within your skillset and staying true to you. Think about how you can educate yourself on the right products. Switched-on manufacturers will support you with training and help to develop your team. Learning new skills can be mind-boggling and you’re not going to be an expert overnight, but it’s not as scary as you think; break it into bitesize chunks and build on your strengths.

WHAT PART DO PRODUCT COMPANIES PLAY IN THE ADVANCEMENT OF INCLUSIVITY?

They play a huge part, although my concern is that some of the giants just want to tick a box. Many brands are not doing as much as they say they are, and their claims can be quite misleading. It’s important to look at it from the ground level up – who’s in the boardroom? Who are the people making the decisions? I truly believe that you can’t be an inclusive company if your people don’t reflect that.

WHAT’S YOUR BEST TECHNICAL TIP REGARDING TEXTURED HAIR?

Watch and learn. There are so many amazing, free resources out there. Look at work that excites you on social media, then challenge yourself to try something new. Most of your current skills will work on textured hair too, it’s just a case of making changes and adapting.

WHAT IS ONE THING EVERY HAIRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAIR?

Knowledge is key to everything, so make it your aim to acquire as much information as you can on this hair type. If you can’t explain to someone the details of a process you’re doing, you need to become more educated on it.

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