“The muse for this look is fashion model Lera Abova, captured by photographer David Sims for Vogue Paris. What was interesting was the juxtaposition of beauty and edginess, strength and softness, ultimately femininity and androgyny. The inspiration for the shape is from the new American Embassy here in London which was designed by Kieran Timberlake. The facade has an unbelievable combination of squareness and roundness, which translated into a powerful style.”
Philipp Haug, TONI&GUY, London
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Starting at the back of the head, work with parallel curved sections that are elevated at 90-degrees at the top of the section to follow the head shape. Then slightly graduate at the nape to create softness.
At the side panel, hold hair at one-finger’s depth and cut parallel to the horizontal parting. Next, use a scissor-over-comb technique to create an undercut area. Then add detail through the hair on the hairline for added strength.
Continue taking parallel horizonal sections until reaching the top of the side panels. Over-direct each section to a stationery guide, to create a graphic outline.
Moving onto the top panel, take parallel curved sections. Hold hair at 90 degrees to over-direct and disconnect the shape from the back area. The line is point cut, increasing the cutting line towards the front.
Using a label.m Hairdryer and label.m Cushion Brush, dry hair from side to side to smooth the cuticle.
Take a very wide triangle section from the profile parting to the recession area on each side. Comb the hair to its natural fall with zero degrees of elevation before using a freehand technique to point-cut the hair from the inside out, to create a strong, rounded fringe.