Three Tier Disconnection by Tim Hartley for MyHairDressers

Tim Hartley’s tutorial demonstrates three tiers of technique and disconnection, featuring pointers on position of graduation, fading, disconnection and balance between extreme lengths. The final result is a trio of techniques sitting in perfect dynamic harmony to create a powerful modern Elvis finish enhanced by the glamour of a blue-black hue.

Hair: Tim Hartley for MyHairDressers.com
Make-Up: Melissa Bourne
Final Clothes Styling: Giuseppina DeCamillo
Step-by-Step Images: MHD Team
Final Image: Andrew Gilbert

Before

Step 1

Create a V-shaped section following the parietal ridge to a point just below the crown, which is slightly offset.

Step 2

Begin on the right-hand side. Take a vertical dividing section just behind the ear.

Step 3

Take a horizontal section in the front side. Pull the hair to approximately 45 degrees.Place a horizontal guide into the round of the head using the previous section as a guide.

Step 4

Remove excess weight with a scissor-over-comb technique, which will later be refined.

Step 5

Work in panels to the back of the head with the same process. As you work the guide becomes more diagonal following the head shape and is worked flatter towards the back.Repeat the same process on the second side.

Step 6

Having established an initial shape, refine using an open blade fade technique.Start on the front hairline on the left-hand side and work up the head in panels to the guide. Work with a curved motion as you reach the guide to blend.Repeat this process all the way round the head.

Step 7

Further refine with a clipper-over-comb technique, visually assessing as you work.This completes the lower portion of the cut.

Step 8

Bring down the top lengths. Take a vertical section from the front hairline to the crown. Elevate the hair to 90 degrees and cut from short to long.Continue with parallel sections through the top on both sides, over-directing to the centre.Cross check.

Step 9

Take a horizontal section in the crown. Pull the hair down to approximately 45 degrees, choose the desired length and cut a square line.Continue with horizontal sections to the front, over-directing back.

Step 10

Dry the hair and assess the natural movement and lengths.

Step 11

Connect from the underneath. Take a vertical section over the crown, use the shorter guide in the crown and carve a rounded line into the established guide in the top.Continue with parallel vertical sections throughout the crown area.

Step 12

Refine the lengths in the crown with a pointing technique.Refine the connection through the sides with the same technique.

Step 13

Dress the hair with a heavy oil product.

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